Raglan is the term for a top that is one solid piece with armholes that extend diagonally into the collar, which is how this blouse is worked- crocheting in the round from top to bottom. The pattern is versatile enough that making it in any size and adding sleeves or body length doesn't require complicated math. And the best part is there aren't any fussy panels to sew together, plus you can try it on as you go!
This is my go-to way of crocheting tops when I don't want to worry about making different pieces that need to be attached. It works especially well for sweaters that are relaxed fit and with ombre yarns (for continuity of the gradient).
Project Time: ~6-10 hours
Materials:
#4 medium weight yarn- (1) 7oz skein is enough to make a small/medium size
tapestry needle & scissors
Things to Keep in Mind:
You can use whatever hook size and yarn weight you like, and I encourage you to experiment with that so you can familiarize yourself with gauge, which is stitch size based on thickness of yarn, size of hook, and tightness of stitch because you will organically learn how to adjust a pattern to get your desired fit.
At the beginning of each dc row, I like to do a stacked single crochet, which is placing a single crochet into the first st, then inserting your hook into the left vertical loop of that same single crochet and making another single crochet. Hence, two single crochets stacked to create a double crochet stitch. This gives a neater seam than the usual "beginning chain 3" because it blends in better as a stitch rather than a chain of 3, but this is totally optional.
Abbreviations:
ch- chain, sts- stitches, sc- single crochet, hdc- half double crochet, dc- double crochet, dc2tog- decrease by making 2 double crochets together, sl st- slip stitch, 2dc- work 2 double crochets into same stitch, v stitch- (double crochet, chain 2, double crochet) in the same stitch
Pattern
You're going to make a foundation chain and attach the ends to crochet in the round, starting at the collar then down continuously without turning. Increases are worked at the 4 v stitches in each "corner" ie sides of the arm holes. You can close them by stopping increases once it's long enough then continuing to work around the sweater body. For longer sleeves, attach yarn directly at the base of the arm holes and work in the round down to the wrist.
Body
sc foundation chain 42 and without twisting chain, join ends with sl st to first st
hdc around (42)
(dc, 2dc around) ending with 1dc in first st (64)
dc 10, v stitch, dc 10, v stitch, dc 20, v stitch, dc 10, v stitch, dc 10, sl st to first st (68) From now on, v stitches will be worked into ch 2 spaces of the previous v stitches
dc 11, v stitch, dc 12, v stitch, dc 22, v stitch, dc 12, v stitch, dc 11, sl st to first st (76)
dc 12, v stitch, dc 14, v stitch, dc 24, v stitch, dc 14, v stitch, dc 12, sl st to first st (84)
dc 13, v stitch, dc 16, v stitch, dc 26, v stitch, dc 16, v stitch, dc 13, sl st to first st (92)
dc 14, v stitch, dc 18, v stitch, dc 28, v stitch, dc 18, v stitch, dc 14, sl st to first st (100)
dc 15, v stitch, dc 20, v stitch, dc 30, v stitch, dc 20, v stitch, dc 15, sl st to first st (108)
dc 16, v stitch, dc 22, v stitch, dc 32, v stitch, dc 22, v stitch, dc 16, sl st to first st (116)
dc 17, v stitch, dc 24, v stitch, dc 34, v stitch, dc 24, v stitch, dc 17, sl st to first st (124)
Now you will create armholes by skipping the side sections and crocheting into the v stitches to connect the wider sections ie front/back. You may chain stitches between the v stitches for a looser arm hole, but follow along for a snug fit. dc 18, v stitch, skip 24 sts, v stitch, dc 36, v stitch, skip 24 sts, v stitch, dc 18 (80)
dc 19, 2 dc into ch 2 space, dc into next two sts, 2 dc into ch 2 space, dc 38, 2 dc into ch 2 space, dc into next two sts, 2 dc into ch 2 space, dc 19. (88)
dc around (88)
We're going to decrease every other row from here to get a tapered shape because I want the body to fit snug, but if you like, you can continue straight until it's long enough. (dc 9, dc2tog) around (80)
dc around (80)
(dc 8, dc2tog) around (72)
dc around (72)
(dc 7, dc 2tog) around (64)
dc around (64)
optional: sc or hdc around for a clean finish
Fasten off, weave in the tail, and you're done!
For my visual learners, here's some imagery to make sure you're on the right track.
This pattern is my own, so I ask that you please do not sell it, although you are free to sell your creations and save this pictorial for future reference.
Size Adjustments:
This is a basic guideline for adjusting measurements based on gauge for #4 medium weight yarn with a 5.5mm hook. If working with a bulky weight yarn (+ bigger hook), you'll want to decrease your initial stitches by about an inch, but the number of rows should remain the same. Likewise, if you choose a lighter weight yarn (+ smaller hook), you'll increase your initial stitches and the number of rows before you close the arm holes. This pattern is pretty forgiving so it'll stretch, but you can always add elastic to the hems if you'd like a more snug fit.
You may want to add stitches for the beginning, but here is the basic formula to help you decide how to do that. Divide your stitches into four sections with front and back being about 2x longer than the sides, leaving room for the v-stitches. Continue increasing in the corners for however many rows you need to achieve a large enough armhole. Connect the armholes the same as described in the original pattern and continue working the body straight or with evenly spaced decreases every other row.
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