With only one stitch- the single crochet- required, this bucket hat is super simple and snug. I like the tightly woven texture of it because it's not as floppy as my double crochet bucket hat, perfect when you want a more minimal brim.
We're going to focus on the shaping and not color changes, but I will provide summarized instructions for how to achieve this pretty ombre.
Project Time: ~2.5 to 3.5 hours
Materials:
US size H/ 5mm hook
#4 medium weight yarn- (1) 7oz skein or 5 colors of your choice
tapestry needle & scissors
Things to Keep in Mind:
You can use whatever hook size and yarn weight you like, and I encourage you to experiment with that so you can familiarize yourself with gauge, which is stitch size based on thickness of yarn, size of hook, and tightness of stitch because you will organically learn how to adjust a pattern to get your desired fit.
Abbreviations:
ch- chain, sts- stitches, sc- single crochet, 2sc- increase by crocheting two sc's into one stitch, sl st- slip stitch
Pattern
You're essentially going to crochet a 7" diameter circle, continue in the round for 3.5" to 4" then increase for the brim (1.5"). This fits most adult heads, and instructions for size adjustments will be at the end.
Create a magic circle and ch 1, sc 6 into the center and pull taut. Ch 1 at the start of each row does not count as a stitch. Slip stitch to the first sc.
Ch 1, turn, 2 sc into each st, sl st to first st of row. (12 sts)
Ch 1, turn, (sc, 2sc) around, sl st to first st of row. (18 sts)
Ch 1, turn, (sc 2, 2sc) around, sl st to first st of row. (24 sts)
Ch 1, turn, (sc 3, 2sc) around, sl st to first st of row. (30 sts)
Ch 1, turn, (sc 4, 2sc) around, sl st to first st of row. (36 sts)
Ch 1, turn, (sc 5, 2sc) around, sl st to first st of row. (42 sts)
From here, you're going to disperse increases differently to get a perfect circle or your piece will start to look octagonal. Ch 1, turn, (sc 2, 2sc, sc 4) around, sl st to first st of row. (48 sts)
Ch 1, turn, (sc 3, 2sc, sc 4) around, sl st to first st of row. (54 sts)
Ch 1, turn, (sc 3, 2sc, sc 5) around, sl st to first st of row. (60 sts)
Ch 1, turn, (sc 3, 2sc, sc 6) around, sl st to first st of row. (66 sts)
Ch 1, turn, (sc 3, 2sc, sc 7) around, sl st to first st of row. (72 sts)
Ch 1, turn, (sc 5, 2sc, sc 6) around, sl st to first st of row. (78 sts)
Ch 1, turn, sc around, sl st to first st of row. (78 sts) Repeat for however many rows you need to achieve the desired length. I did 14 straight rows.
27. Ch 1, turn, (sc, 2sc) around, sl st to first st of row. (117 sts)
28-32. Ch 1, turn, sc around, sl st to first st of row. (117 sts)
Fasten off then weave in the tail, and you're done!
Pro tip: for shaping, I like to run a steamer across it til it softens. Don't hold over one spot for too long.
For my visual learners, here's some imagery to make sure you're on the right track.
This pattern is my own, so I ask that you please do not sell it, although you are free to sell your creations and save this pictorial for future reference.
Adjustments:
Using a thinner yarn will require more rows at the top to reach your 7" diameter, and a thicker yarn may require less rows to achieve the same gauge. To make a smaller hat, you would crochet less rows at the top and continue in the round, reducing number of rows for the crown. Inversely, add rows at the top and crown for a larger size hat. There is no need to decrease stitches or change the increases.
To achieve the ombre or gradient stripes like in the picture, you would start with your lightest color and work your way down to the darkest color. This is how many rows I did for each color:
white- 7 rows
blush pink- 5 rows
hot pink- 7 rows
fuchsia- 7 rows
red- 9 rows
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